Auto enthusiasts and DIYers may use a kit from the auto parts store to paint their own cars but after a while, rust, bubbles or buckling appears on the surface. Unfortunately, painting over the area again does not help the issue.
A professional paint job, ideally in a closed and controlled spray booth, can save you this headache in more ways than one. What can result from a bad paint job or putting off a repaint for several years?
Visually, bleeding occurs when the original finish comes through the new topcoat and looks mottled or multicolored. This issue typically results from insufficient preparation or using a lighter color paint. For more consistent results, sand the old coat and add a primer before applying the new topcoat.
Die Back or Dulling
At some point, your car’s glossy finish may give way to a matte look. The longer you go without reapplying the topcoat, the more likely dulling will occur. This can happen in a relatively short period if the solvent doesn’t evaporate fully or the first coat isn’t cured properly.
Dirt & Debris
Closed spray booths help block out dirt and debris. When applying topcoat in the driveway, it’s rare to keep these particles away. Especially with DIY work, these small particles can end up under or on top of the final coat, leading to a bumpy, gritty appearance.
When paint bubbles pop in one area, the result is “fish eyes” or trapped air. This problem often stems from poor preparation, including:
- The car’s surface isn’t cleaned off before you apply paint.
- You leave silicone wax on the car before you apply new paint.
- Spray equipment used has contaminated air lines. Oil or silicone ends up in the solution and gets mixed with the paint.
Like the surface of an orange peel, your paint develops several pits. These are usually created when the paint dries before it can flow over your car’s surface. This may be the result of:
- Incorrect usage of a paint gun.
- Extreme air temperatures in your painting environment, causing solvent to evaporate sooner and the paint to dry earlier than needed.
- Improper drying between coats. At this point, the enamel coat is too dry and ends up absorbing the subsequent coats on top.
- Too-thin or too-thick paint with too many solvents or poorly mixed paint.
Running and Sagging
Often due to heavy application, paint starts to run down the side of the car. Once dry, it looks uneven and thick in some areas but not others. This usually occurs when you:
- Don’t let the base coats fully dry
- Place the spray gun too close to the surface
- Attempt to paint in cold weather
Do you park your car directly in the sun? When you don’t have a garage or carport, regular UV exposure can fade the paint’s finish, especially if you don’t routinely wash and wax the surface.
Also called “lifting”, the paint starts to shrivel and bunch up while you’re adding a new coat. In this case, the new coat’s solvents repel those in the old coat, causing the paint to lift up. This often occurs when you’re reapplying urethane or enamel and don’t allow the base coat to fully dry.
On the other hand, the solvent can pass from the top to the undercoats, resulting in wrinkling around the newly applied paint. This issue generally stems from poor-quality primers and sealers creating a thin or insufficient barrier.
Cracks or Crow’s Feet
Typically, paint begins to crack when one of the coats applied is too thick or you’ve applied too much hardener. If you attempted to paint over an existing crack, it could emerge through the new paint.
Similar to house painting, auto paint that’s not given enough time to dry doesn’t adhere correctly. At some point, the layers start to separate and begin peeling off the car.
Especially with metallic finishes, your car’s paint takes on a streaked appearance with time, due to improper application techniques:
- Unbalanced spray patterns
- Incorrect tilt on the spray gun
- Too-thin lower coats
- Not letting paint dry between coats
To correct a rough, faded or uneven auto paint job, schedule an appointment with the team at DaSilva’s Auto Body today!